Mauritania

Greetings

Men greeting Men – A handshake is the most common form of greeting, although the hands are generally not shaken up and down, but clasped and held. It is not unusual for on one man to hold the hand of the other between both hands for the duration of the greeting.

Women greeting Women - A handshake is the most common form of greeting, although the hands are generally not shaken up and down, but clasped and held. Some women will also kiss on both cheeks and good friends and family may embrace twice, once on each side.

Men and Women – A verbal greeting or nod of acknowledgment is generally the norm. For foreign men greeting Maur women, it is best to wait for the woman to extend her hand. Most women will choose not to shake a foreign man's hand. In some cases, such as when greeting a mixed group, men and women will shake hands when greeting members of the same sex, but when they get to a member of the opposite sex, they will place their right had in the center of their chest while greeting.

Note: ALWAYS use the right hand when greeting. Mauritanian greetings are particularly extended, even between strangers and minor acquaintances; even simply saying hello to a friend in passing, when you don’t intend to stop and visit, the greetings are prolonged. While this may feel awkward to a visitor, to give the customary “hello” and move on is considered impolite. It is expected that the first time you see someone that day you greet them with the customary series of greetings, which usually involve: “Peace be with you! How are you? I hope nothing bad has happened? I hope all is well? What is new? How is your family? How is your health? How are you with the tiredness? How are you with the heat? How are you? I hope nothing bad has happened…”

The greetings would be spoken in either Hassaniya, Pulaar, Sonnike,or Woloof, but the sentiments are the same. Also, the same response applies to most of the questions. “Peace only” “Machallah-or As God has willed it”, “Thanks be to God”, etc. Often when you listen, people don’t respond to the questions they are asked always, but respond with a greeting of their own.

As is the case in many Western cultures, the purpose of greetings is not really to get information. When you say “How are you,” generally you expect to hear “I’m fine,” as the greeting is a courtesy. It is the same way in Mauritania, it just takes longer. Questions are often repeated several times in the course of the greeting. This is not considered strange. Greetings will go on longer between people who have not met for a long time, or between closer acquaintances.

Communication Style

• Mauritanians tend to be direct communicators, especially when talking about things they want. This can seem strange to a visitor, as the phrases “please” and “thank you” are not heard in the course of day to day conversation. It is part of the hospitality of culture.
• It is the responsibility of the person to provide hospitality to visitors in their home to guests should not have to do anything for themselves. It is only once you become part of the family or a very close friend that Mauritanians will not scold you for getting up and doing something, like getting water for yourself. You can see this in the language as many people will say “Give me the water” or “Hand me the water”. "Please” is never used, but this is not a sign of disrespect. Because it is expected, people will simply demand things, knowing that, when the situation is reversed, they will provide the same hospitality to others in their home.

Personal Space & Touch

• There is generally very little personal space during conversations. An arm's length is often a good place to start, but often members of the same sex will pull you closer to speak with you. This is a privilege of friends and many will do it in order to convey that they consider you a friend, or want to in any case. People will also do this when asking you for things.
• There is always space between members of the opposite sex, and usually when you are a guest you will be seated by yourself somewhere, and that amount of space is a rare thing and sort of shows how important they think you are. However, many of the day to day aspects of life in do not allow much space.

• When traveling in taxis, it's common to see four people placed in the backseat and two in the navigator seat. Drivers try to separate men from women, because things are so squashed, but this does not always work, and foreigners are often used as buffers between Mauritanian men and women.

• Members of the opposite sex do not touch, in general. Although some men may shake the hands of foreign women if they are presented in a business context, this varies on the area. Moors from the north seldom if ever touch women, but Pulaar and Woloof men in the south are generally less conservative.

• There is a considerable amount of touching between members of the same sex while conversing. Holding hands is common, and does not indicate anything other than friendship.

Eye Contact

• Many children will not look their elders in the eye, women may not look a man in the eye, but this is not always the case, and women in Mauritanian culture generally have more freedom and status than is seen in other Arab cultures.
• When speaking to a high ranking religious official, such as an imam or a maribou, people will generally not look them in the eye.
• Visiting Westerners tend to come with a strange kind of status, and looking people in the eye in not something most Mauritanians will take offense to.

Gestures

• People beckon one another by holding the palm out and opening and closing the fingers. It usually means “come here”.
• Snapping your fingers over your shoulder means you are talking about something that happened a long time ago.
• Some drivers will demand your “pass” by rubbing their thumb over their index and pointer fingers.
• When discussing two people who are a couple, people will hook their two pointer fingers together, first with one finger on top, and then again with the opposite finger on top.
• Strangers will often try to get your attention by saying “Psssst.” Over, and over, and over.

• Placing your thumb under your chin means “a lot.”

Views of Time

• While in general it is best to be on time, it is rare for meetings to start on time, if they start at all. People who come late are generally unabashed, and will not see their tardiness as any reason not to stop and greet everyone before sitting down to the meeting.
• Regarding transportation, Mauritania has few train or bus services. The train that runs from Zourat to Nouadibou is run by a private company, and is generally on time. When getting into a taxi, the driver will always tell you they are leaving immediately, or in five minutes. Taxis will leave when they have acquired enough passengers to fill the car, which can take anywhere from 5 minutes to an hour or more. The bac, the barge between Rosso and Rosso, generally runs on time.
• No matter how far behind or how much work there is to be done, everything stops for at least an hour in the afternoon for lunch and a rest. This can take up to 3 hours. The idea of taking a quick break and heading back to work does not tend to apply in Mauritania. There usually must be a meal and at least 2 of the 3 rounds of tea before you can start work again.
• Few people work between 1 pm and 3:30 pm. Also, everything stops for prayer times as well.
• Most people give their time to others freely.

Gender Roles

• While women in Mauritanian society can be found running boutiques by themselves, selling at their own stalls in the market place, and serving in positions within the government, they must conform to a different set of behavioral standards.
• Women seldom travel alone between cities, and if they do a male relative generally escorts them to the garage and arranges their fare and car with the samsaar (the head of the garage) himself.
• Women cover their head, either by wearing a mulafa, a full body veil a little like a sari which covers the head but not the face (although the free end may be used to wrap around the face during sandstorms or if a woman is in the presence of many men and feels the need to cover her face), or by wearing a head wrap, typical of the Woloof, Sonnika, and Pulaar women, a colorful piece of fabric that matches the rest of their outfit.
• When in the company of women, moors may let the head cover part of their mulafa fall back, but they always adjust it before leaving the home.
• Foreign women are not expected to cover their heads, but those that choose to wear tank tops that reveal their shoulders, tight clothes, pants, and skirts that are not full length risk being dubbed “disquette”. In some circumstances this means “pretty young girl” but it is not a word men will use to describe a respected Mauritanian woman.
• Women traveling will be better respected if they wear clothes that cover their shoulders, knees, and ankles. If pants are worn, the shirt should be longer, falling halfway to the knees. Headcovering is not mandatory, but may be a good idea when meeting higher level officials, as they will respond positively to the gesture.

Taboos

• Lying on the back is usually not acceptable for women and lying on the stomach is not acceptable for men.

• No displays of public affection between members of the opposite sex are accepted. Married couples are not allowed to hold hands, and it is often difficult to identify husbands and wives because they seldom sit together and never touch.

• Ignoring people who greet you is considered extremely rude. When one enters a store or house or any public place it is necessary to greet people you see.

• During the holy month of Ramadan, drinking or eating in front of Mauritanians is particularly rude.

• It is seen as shameful for a boy and girl to flirt together in public.

• Within the Maure ethnicity, it is seen negatively if a woman raises her head covering in public.

Law & Order

• Mauritania is a dry country and drinking is illegal under sharia law. Foreigners can sometimes find beer in various restaurants in the capital and can consume it legally, but bringing alcohol into the country and giving any to Mauritanians is illegal.

• Once every few months there will be a crackdown on the restaurants and clubs that sell beer, and there will not be any to be found for a while before things loosen up again. If there are smoking laws they are not enforced, although smoking is not allowed for Mauritanians during Ramadan, and discouraged for women.

• Penalties for possession, use, or trafficking in illegal drugs in are severe, and convicted offenders can expect long jail sentences and heavy fines.

Meetings

• While in general it is best to be on time for meetings, it is rare for them to start on time, if they start at all. People who come late are generally unabashed, and will not see their tardiness as any reason not to stop and greet everyone before sitting down to the meeting.

Negotiations

• Foreigners will almost always be charged more for goods and services. Prices are rarely listed so it is a good idea to get the typical prices from someone you trust before negotiating, which is necessary for most things you buy in the market, and all transportation.
• Items bought in a small boutique, like washing powder, sugar, rice, cookies, milk, etc. usually have fixed prices, and the owners do not tend to negotiate. Observe what the Mauritanian customers are doing first if you are unsure.

In the Classroom

• The grading system at most institutions is based on the French system of 0-20, with 20 being the highest. A 20 is next-to-impossible to earn though, 11s and 12s are average. Below 10 is failing.
• Lecture is the most common form of teaching.

Other Observations

• There are many restaurants in the capital which are run by foreigners that will happily serve meals between sunrise and sunset during Ramadan.
• If working in rural areas, remember that the rainy season can effectively delay a project for weeks or months, since with few paved roads the water can limit transportation to and from the city for days after the rain.
• Foreigners will always be charged more, and the price is hardly ever listed for anything, so it is a good idea to get the typical prices from someone you trust before negotiating, which is necessary for most things you buy in the market, and all transportation. Items you buy in a small boutique, like washing powder, sugar, rice, cookies, milk, etc. usually have fixed prices, and owner will not negotiate.
• Observe what the Mauritanian customers are doing first if you are unsure.
• Garages/taxi stands can be stressful as once you arrive your will most likely immediately be surrounded by a large group of men, all telling you to come with them. They will grab your bags form the trunk if you are not fast enough and carry them to their vehicle. It is the one place in where strangers, men, will touch a woman. They know this is inappropriate, and they do it because you are a westerner, do remind then sharply and loudly that they should not be touching you and they will back off. Stand your ground and demand the prices before you get into a car.
• There are several classes of vehicle. Almost all the cars are Mercedes or Peugot station wagons. A Mercedes will hold fewer and go faster, a Peugot is cheaper, but holds more people (3 in the back, 4 in the middle, two in the front plus the driver) so it takes longer to fill. You may find a car that will only carry a “normal” western load, of 3 in the back and 1 in the front, these generally cater to richer customers, and you will pay more, but have a more comfortable ride.
• Also keep in mind that most Mauritanian women are large, fat is considered beautiful, so you will be more comfortable sharing a backseat with 3 skinny men than 3 large women. Your bags will cost extra, but you can negotiate this down, they should not cost extra between Rosso and Nouakchott, because it is a short ride.
• Cars also frequently break down, so be prepared to stop for a flat tire, and try to pick a car that looks in better condition than the rest. Getting together a group of 6 before arriving at the garage saves time, as you can rent out the entire car and leave immediately.
• When traveling north from Rosso there are 5-7 checkpoints, some run by the police and some by the army, and the driver will have to get out and usually pay a bribe. You will also be asked for your passports as well. This is less common on roads that do not lead to or from a border, such as the Road of Hope that heads east, or the road north to Atar.
• Be prepared to drink a lot of sugar mint tea.