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There are many restaurants in the capital which are run by foreigners that will happily serve meals between sunrise and sunset during Ramadan.
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If working in rural areas, remember that the rainy season can effectively delay a project for weeks or months, since with few paved roads the water can limit transportation to and from the city for days after the rain.
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Foreigners will always be charged more, and the price is hardly ever listed for anything, so it is a good idea to get the typical prices from someone you trust before negotiating, which is necessary for most things you buy in the market, and all transportation. Items you buy in a small boutique, like washing powder, sugar, rice, cookies, milk, etc. usually have fixed prices, and owner will not negotiate.
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Observe what the Mauritanian customers are doing first if you are unsure.
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Garages/taxi stands can be stressful as once you arrive your will most likely immediately be surrounded by a large group of men, all telling you to come with them. They will grab your bags form the trunk if you are not fast enough and carry them to their vehicle. It is the one place in where strangers, men, will touch a woman. They know this is inappropriate, and they do it because you are a westerner, do remind then sharply and loudly that they should not be touching you and they will back off. Stand your ground and demand the prices before you get into a car.
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There are several classes of vehicle. Almost all the cars are Mercedes or Peugot station wagons. A Mercedes will hold fewer and go faster, a Peugot is cheaper, but holds more people (3 in the back, 4 in the middle, two in the front plus the driver) so it takes longer to fill. You may find a car that will only carry a “normal” western load, of 3 in the back and 1 in the front, these generally cater to richer customers, and you will pay more, but have a more comfortable ride.
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Also keep in mind that most Mauritanian women are large, fat is considered beautiful, so you will be more comfortable sharing a backseat with 3 skinny men than 3 large women. Your bags will cost extra, but you can negotiate this down, they should not cost extra between Rosso and
Nouakchott , because it is a short ride.
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Cars also frequently break down, so be prepared to stop for a flat tire, and try to pick a car that looks in better condition than the rest. Getting together a group of 6 before arriving at the garage saves time, as you can rent out the entire car and leave immediately.
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When traveling north from Rosso there are 5-7 checkpoints, some run by the police and some by the army, and the driver will have to get out and usually pay a bribe. You will also be asked for your passports as well. This is less common on roads that do not lead to or from a border, such as the Road of Hope that heads east, or the road north to Atar.
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Be prepared to drink a lot of sugar mint tea.
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